Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti
Overview
MB&F and Bvlgari are worlds apart, and yet share an unexpected connection that gives birth to one-of-a-kind creations that challenge horological conventions. After the success of the LM FlyingT Allegra, both brands are proud to introduce the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti - an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis.
In 2021, sparked by a chance encounter a few years earlier between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, the two brands released a first collaboration bringing the exuberant, colourful world of Bvlgari jewellery into MB&F’s Legacy Machines. After the success of that collaboration, the two friends naturally wondered, what next?
About the collaboration
For this second collaboration, Fabrizio and Max chose to reinterpret one of Bvlgari’s most famous historical creations – Serpenti, which first appeared in Bvlgari’s creations in 1948 – bringing it into the very mechanical universe of MB&F haute-horlogerie. Combining the vision and expertise of these two creative forces, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti slithered into being…
Reimagining Serpenti – an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis – into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti represents a unique creation, born from an inspired encounter and a shared vision, where calibre and design seamlessly enhance one another.
AN INTENSE DESIGN PROCESS
According to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the design aspects “were a pleasure to create”, perhaps giving the impression that this part of the process was relatively easy – but the hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models attest otherwise. Contrary to a classic round case, which offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti could not be more complicated. Like an automobile, the view is radically different depending on whether you admire it from the front, the side, the top, the back… and all those views must be equally satisfying. Like a carefully-balanced equation with multiple variables, any adjustment to a particular angle or curve, although improving a certain view, can potentially destroy another. This resulted in countless iterations of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti design.
A CHALLENGING CASE MANUFACTURING
Once perfected aesthetically, the design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti case is all about curves, combined together to create a machining nightmare. The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear section – all treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement. This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.
AUTOMOTIVE TOUCHES
In addition to its obvious Serpenti origins, this unique new series reveals another source of inspiration for its two creators. Both Fabrizio and Max are car design enthusiasts and grew up with the same automotive references. Initially, there was no plan to incorporate automobile design codes into the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, but there is no denying the influence that has seeped into this new creation: a case that resembles sleek automotive bodywork, a complex “stepped” sapphire crystal shaped like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, crowns that could easily be mistaken for car wheels... The apparent portion of the movement also includes car engine-like components, including a grille with the famous hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations.
A COMPLEX MOVEMENT BREAKING HOROLOGICAL CONVENTIONS
Inside the complex case, an equally complex movement that breaks all traditional watchmaking conventions, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. From the beginning, one of Fabrizio’s central ideas was to bring Serpenti to (mechanical) life by animating its eyes; this has been materialised as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. The mechanical reptile’s brain is symbolised by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz (18,000bph). It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.
Machine in action
“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Director of Watchmaking Creation, Bvlgari
THE MACHINE
Three Limited Editions of 33 pieces each in 18K rose rold with green hour and minute domes, grade 5 titanium with blue domes, or black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes.
- A 39mm grade 5 titanium case with blue domes / A 39mm 18K rose gold case with green hour and minute domes / A 39mm black PVD-coated stainless steel case with red domes.
- Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm.
- Open-case design reveals the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator.
- 5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
- Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding: right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30m / 90ft.
- Indexes and markers coated with Super-LumiNova.
- Hand-stitched rubber strap with velcro system.
- Ardillon buckle in grade 5 titanium / 18K rose gold.
- Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement.
- Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials.
- Functions: hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours).
- Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours).
- Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes).
- Power reserve indicator at the back of the movement thanks to dedicated hand and a metallization on the case back sapphire crystal.
- Hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours).
Discover the models available for this collection
Inspiration
Giving birth to a brand new interpretation of Bvlgari's iconic and historical Serpenti timepiece and bringing it into the very mechanical universe of MB&F haute-horlogerie was both a challenge and pleasure for both Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximilian Büsser. The project required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing. Calibre and design seamlessly enhance one another.
In addition to its obvious Serpenti origins, the two creators are car design enthusiasts. They could not resist incorporating automotive codes into the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti: the case shaped like sleek automotive bodywork, a complex “stepped” sapphire crystal like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, crowns that could easily be mistaken for car wheels... The apparent portion of the movement also includes car engine-like components, including a grille with the famous hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations.
“Watchmaking is all about innovation and desirability stemming from the magical fusion of superlative micromechanical expertise with unexpected yet stunning timeless designs. Brands must cross new boundaries and dare to innovate out of the box, under the leadership of managers and designers obsessed with progress, beauty and strategic thinking that drives unexpected initiatives.
We released our first co-designed timepiece in 2021, bringing Bvlgari’s colorful gemstones to MB&F’s Legacy Machines, fusing the best of two different yet complementary DNAs and expertise.
I am delighted to see our two Maisons unite again for an extraordinary creation, reimagining our brand’s most famous icon, Serpenti, into an astonishing design powered by a beautiful MB&F caliber. Our collaboration is unique in the watch world because it bridges the two souls of our Maisons and gives birth to a timeless treasure – a true collectible piece. The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti shows that superlative watchmaking can be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents like Max and Fabrizio.”
Jean-Christophe Babin
CEO Bvlgari Group
About Bvlgari
Part of the LVMH Group, Bvlgari was founded in the heart of Rome in 1884.
Over the decades, the Brand has established a worldwide reputation as magnificent Roman High Jeweler and icon of Italian art of living thanks to its exquisite craftsmanship, visionary design and audacious color combinations.
Through a pioneering vision intrinsic in the brand's DNA since its founding, the company’s international success has evolved into a global and diversified luxury purveyor of products and services, ranging from fine jewels and high-end watches to accessories and perfumes, and featuring an extended network of boutiques and hotels in the world’s most exclusive shopping areas.
Demonstrated through its numerous philanthropic partnerships, Bvlgari deeply believes in innovating the present for a sustainable future through its commitment to Social & Environmental Responsibility and giving back – to nature and to the community. In 2024 the Maison announced the creation of Fondazione Bvlgari, reinforcing its devotion to building a meaningful tomorrow through care, generosity and long-term dedication.
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